Top of the World
Greatest mountain walk on the earth! Most spectacular mountain scenery in the world before you, each day of the trek! 5560 meters above the sea level! Very thin layer of oxygen! Minus 5-10 temperature! Highest mountain view on the earth. The very thought of it makes one eager, excited and enthusiastic.
Blue sky, mesmerizing clouds, white snow, blowing wind, crazy breeze, frozen rivers, snow shower, waving alpines, rising/setting sun with its rays touched upon only on the top of the mountains, a view as if someone has placed the golden tip to the pearl white mountain, stony pavements and alongside Dudh koshi river, passing tea shops, suspension bridges, thousands of chortens (graveyard of deceased mountaineers), prayer mantras carved on a big stone rock, soothing Buddhist chants, apple farms, porters and yaks with their loads on their back and trekkers and some familiar/smiley innocent faces with usual greetings of “Namaste” & “Hello, and it’s you and your thoughts, this what one witness during the Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trekking.
EBC is considered as mother of all treks and is known as one of the most famous trekking route in the world. It’s a lifetime occasion to have a glimpse of the most spectacular panorama of all the greatest peaks in the world. As lonely planet states, it is the 4th top most & toughest destination in the world to visit in one's life. The trip consisted scenic flight to Lukla; Sherpa home town; Monasteries; amazing view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Amadablam, Thamserku, Views of Khumbu Ice - Fall, Sherpa's village, Tengboche Monastery, Everest Base Camp, Kalapatthar and yes the last day colorful Kathmandu.
At the age of 3 when I read that Mt. Everest is the highest mountain in the world, never did I imagine that, I will walk that classic path of EBC. Ah! A dream successfully come true was the thought in mind, when I made it to the Kala Patthar and saw an eyeful of Mt. Everest. Words fall short to explain the beauty of Khumbu region which is known for its natural treasure, unique flora and fauna, away from the world at the top of the world. Absolute simplicity immersed with peace and serenity, life settles down there and you feel one with nature.
Though the journey sounded like “too long” to be away from home, office, the virtual and the real world, I was ready to be a part of the world’s one of the most fantastic trekking experience. When got into the charter flight flying to one of the world’s most dangerous airport Lukla (2800 meters/30 minutes), a wave of fear crossed the mind that I may never return. When pilot Vijay Lama shook my hand, I just had 6 words to utter “our life is in your hand”.
With 4 others in the group, our trek began from Lukla with 3 porters and a guide. The first day was from Lukla to Phadking, second day trek was from Phadking to Namche. After a spectacular sunrise, we descended steeply to the Dudh Kosi before climbing to join a ridge contour trail offering farewell views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and other Himalayan giants en route to Namche. Toughest path with ascending, crossing the river Dudh Koshi several times, waiting the Jopches (hybrid of cow and yak, which is used for transport) to vacate the path, leaving the way for porters it was pitch dark, when we made it to Namche.
Magnificent forests of blue pine, fir, juniper and rhododendron as well as our first views of Everest helped ease the climb. The view from the Everest Hotel is one of its kinds. A short, stiff climb brought us to the small airstrip at Shyangboche before we detour to visit the Everest View Hotel with its spectacular views of the Khumbu Ice fall including Everest and Ama Dablam.
From Namche, I had cold and little bleeding in the nose. The time we reached Dingboche, my nose was on marathon. Fortunately, didn’t have any other symptoms of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) apart from this. At Deboche, my “josh” had gone up after meeting Mr. & Mrs. Kasahara (Japanese couple) who were coming back from the Kala Patthar and EBC, just at the age of 69. My and my friend had a comment; we people get arthritis by 35.
We then descend briefly to a guest house in the village of Khumjung (12434ft, 3790m). The afternoon we visited Khumjung Monastery and could famous “yeti scalp” and the Hillary School (1.5 – 2 hours walking). That was a day for acclimatization. Next day the journey was towards Deboche. We headed uphill through rhododendron forests to visit historical monastery of Thyangboche, a UNSECO world heritage site (3860m), which was filled with fog and mist. There was a festival going on in the monastery. The cold breeze was gushy! The layer of clothes had gone up from 3 to 4.
That was day 7. Hardly used to feel hungry this time. It was impossible to drink the cold water. I had to break the ice to get water to be used in the washroom. Pathetic, but fun! Gloves, monkey cap, woolen wears, 3 socks, 1 pull over, in spite of everything; it used to be unimaginable cold. There used to be chimneys in every guesthouse in the dining room, wherein you can warm up yourself. But, within few fractions of second you are away from the chimney, cold breeze would gush in. Every door had a poster “Please close the door”!
From Deboche we started our trekking towards Dingboche (4410m). It was again a steep trail. We visited the Chukung Valley for acclimatization. It was one of the scariest days. On the way there was a plain ground, running about 2-3 acres, full of the stones kept on one another. I asked the guide, what this design is. The answer he gave me shocked all of us. It was chortens of those who couldn’t make it to the Everest & Everest Base Camp! That made me to remember it again that, “I didn’t inform my folks about my EBC trekking”. But there was no backing out.
Next destination was Lobuche (16207ft, 4940m). It is a short but steep climb to the lodges at Lobuche. We had to take it slow on the slippery melting ice. When we reached the top of the pass there were prayers fags fluttering in the wind and we could see lots of chortens or memorials for deceased mountaineers. The last stretch of walk was too strainful and I had some symptoms of headache. I kind of was worried. But was acting quite normal. I didn’t want to make the other team members worried. Started having lots of water and applied the Vicks and slept off, hoping that tomorrow morning I should only have head, no ache!
Luckily, I was fine the next day morning, and all back with my “josh”! All of us were again worried hearing that, we had to walk one of the longest stretches for 10 hours that day. We were ready. So, started to Gorak Shep (5140 m). The more nearer the destiny, the more exciting I used to be. After a point, wherever there used to be an ascent, it used to be ecstasy. Very long distance. Were tired even before making half of it. I used to ask, each and every person who were on their way back from EBC, how far is it. Finally, by 4 pm, some one said, you almost are there. We had through the ablation valley and plenty of glacial moraines to reach the lodges at Gorak Shep (16962ft, 5170m), wow, it was wonderful. Entire terrain surrounded by giant mountains, covered with snow.
I had this crave to eat some spicy food, the moment we reached Gorak Shep. For the last two days, I was not ready to take the risk of having my health at risk. So had to control my desire and eat the same routine, omlete and dal bath. For a moment I felt, life has become “so tasteless”, no spice!
We were just 1 day before witnessing the Everest. We did start very early in the morning, by 6 am to the Everest Base Camp. The weather was with us, there was no cloud, no fog. Sky was clear. It’s almost 4 hours walk to the Everest Base Camp (5340 m). It was a long walk on broken glacial moraine all the way into Base Camp, at 17,500 feet (5333 meters). This is the closest that you can get to Everest without mountaineering equipment. On your way, you will hear/see the avalanches. The view of the Khumbu Icefall from here is spectacular. Entire range of mountains, frozen rivers on the way. A clear view of tip of the Everest covered by Nuptse and Luptse. Nothing can be compared to that. The path which people who try to the summit had to take was breathtaking. The path looked like “life and death journey”.
Alas, 10th Day! We were just a day before the amazing view of Everest. Our goal today is the ascent of Kala Patthar (“Black Rock”), a small peak by Himalayan standards at 18200ft, 5545m. It was just ascending all the while for almost 4-5 hours. There were so many giving it up and coming downwards. The people who were on their back, just stated, “If you are bad, please don’t go ahead”. Scary, but thrilling. The climb was tough and quite hard. Fortunately, I was all fine. Another mountaineer, who was on her way to the Kala Patthar, said, “My husband is going down, he is not well”. I got worried, but was telling myself, I am better. I heard from somewhere “Either be there, or be square”. I wanted to be there. And in the next one hour, I made it to the peak of Kala Patthar. It was the most magnificent mountain panorama possible I have ever seen in my life. Everest (the highest point on the planet at 29028ft, 8848m) towers directly ahead, while Nuptse, Lhotse, Changtse, Pumori and countless other giants loom on all sides. One really fells, that they are on the “Top of the World” and they really are.
Base camp adventure is a reasonable trek for the very fit enthusiast (it’s not just your body, it’s your mind as well), a journey to these sacred regions offers a lifetime of impressions and reflections. Most days are nothing short of breathtaking while we walk amidst the Himalayan giants to the jingle of yak bells and giant rhododendrons. Each corner reveals new vistas that transport our psyche further into the shadows of the daunting peaks. Traveling to these regions offers an uncompromising experience.
Is descending easy and fun? Well no, not till you get hit by snow, wind and breeze, which is exactly what happened on our way back. We took a detour to Dingboche village after Thukla where we halted. Next day, we started towards Kungjuma and halted for our night. The next day we managed to reach Namche and from there to Lukla. From Lukla we finally flew back home.
Trekking in the Everest region of Nepal is a lifetime experience. Stuck in history and natural beauty, every day brings a wondrous experience as the path is peppered with beauty, insight into a deeply rooted Buddhist culture while hiking through a literal museum of climbing history. The expedition takes you through world's greatest peaks Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam portraying the mighty Khumbu region, one has the occasion to explore its lower splendor in the silhouette of these great peaks. The beautiful alpines wave their hand all through your trekking till Laboche. Along the way, trekkers are showered with impressions of ancient Tibetan Buddhism as we visit and learn from our friends living in these inspiring monastic communities.
You get lost in the world of mountains and unfettered by the rigors of busy life. You will spend 15 days in a land where life is simple and beautiful, people are gentle and humble, paths are steep, terrains are tough and the air is thin.
